A Very Auspicious Survey

Leaving Goa, we tried negotiating with the hotel manager to receive a reduced hotel rate. Laying out our complaints (bathing in dirty water, no electricity, no TV (cable was out), and overall filth), we were ushered into the manager's office for a more private conversation. Understanding our points, we received a reduced rate of 1500 rs. per night, down from 1748 rs. However, adding in the 750 we paid for the ride from the airport, everything evened out. If the hotel wasn't that expensive (US$20) I wouldn't have minded the lack of clean water and electricity. But for about US$40 per night, I didn't think it was too much to ask.

As a sign of good intentions, the manager offered us a free ride back to the airport on their bus that would leave at noon (it was now 11:30am) and our flight left at 2pm. Deciding to take his offer, we waited around. Going to the bus at 11:50am, we were greeted by a foul smelling bus, with no air conditioning and inoperable windows. It was also clear that we would not be leaving on time, as we were waiting for more people to arrive at the bus. I went to the manager twice saying we needed to leave in order not to miss our flight. Finally when Jeremy went to complain, the manager gave us an SUV to use, and put a family of four in there with us. At least this meant we made it safely and quickly to the airport and boarded our flight.

With no available direct flight to Chennai, we boarded a Jet Airways plane to Bangalore - while the plane wasn't anything special, the service was good and we received a hot snack that was large enough to be a meal for us. In Bangalore, we boarded a Spice Jet plane (spicy everyday fares), which was rather disorganized, but left on time.

Kate greeted us at the airport, and she and her boyfriend Jason (who also works at the US Consulate) took us out for a lovely dinner on top of very nice hotel with an amazing view of Chennai.

Ironically, Chennai is known as the Detroit of South Asia, because of the large automobile manufacturing base located here. Approximately 40% of all India's autos are manufactured in Chennai. A lot of US jobs have also been outsourced to this location.

The following day Kate and Jason took us to Mahabalipuram, a beautiful town just south of Chennai. We were taken to the following sites, all of which were really beautiful:

• The Shore Temple: A temple off the Bay of Bengal. In 2004, an earthquake led to the removal of sand deposits on additional structures that had once been hidden.
• Pancha Rathas (Five Chariots): Five structures, each carved out of a whole piece of rock.

We also went to a mock-village where we were supposed to see representations of different cultures across India, and examples of their crafts. Unfortunately, most of the exhibits seemed to be closed. I did manage to buy some handmade Indian bangles, and have mehndi applied to my left hand. We tried stopping at a crocodile farm on the way back to Chennai, but they were closed on Mondays.

We stayed in that evening, and ate a nice home cooked meal (made by their maid), and played Taboo, which was highly entertaining.

The following day, Kate took us to a couple sites in Chennai:

• Kapaleeshwarar Temple: A beautiful South Indian temple
• San Thome Basilica (St. Thomas Basilica): Where the apostle Thomas is buried, and one of three sites in the world where a Catholic church is erected over a tomb.

We also went to few stores. I managed to buy a pair of Indian shoes, and searched in vain for a shirt to wear. We also picked up a Goa-Trance record and some Indian dance club music. After Jason got off work, we met up with some of their consulate friends at a Middle Eastern restaurant for some good food.

Kate and Jason have been great hosts. For starters, Kate's apartment is amazing. A two level place, with marble floors, about 5 bedrooms and 3 or 4 bathrooms, a gorgeous kitchen, washer/dryer in-unit, and all the amenities you could ask for - she's living like a queen. Her place makes for a good escape from the outside world. We have also heard many stories of their daily jobs. Both of them interview Indians in order to issue visas. Needless to say, while the job itself is boring, they have funny stories of the responses to questions they get. Both of them think that we should not worry about India taking over the world anytime soon. They'd first need to get their act together, and Kate and Jason think that is not going to happen in our lifetime.

Jeremy has also been perfecting his head-bob. For those unfamiliar with Indian non-verbal communication, Indians will bob their head side-to-side when talking - most of the time it is a sign of understanding and often affirmation, although the bob has subtleties to it.

While most of India and its culture are very different from the States, there are a couple items that really stick out and can be rather entertaining, one of which is the ubiquitous comment card. Everywhere we go (restaurants, bars, hotels, etc) we always receive surveys - and usually not just once, but many times. Kate and Jason believe it is India's attempt to become more Westernized, but they also say that nothing is ever done with the actual comments.

They tell this one story of a friend of theirs who had what was supposed to be a relaxing eye treatment, and it turned out to be very painful. He proceeded to provide negative feedback on the survey, and was told that he could not write that on the survey - that he had to change his comments. He then tore the survey up in front of them and everyone gasped as if he were killing a baby.

But we indulge everyone at the places we go and fill out their multiple surveys with candid feedback.

We've really enjoyed Chennai. Despite what the guide books say (not much to see, not too developed), we think Chennai is the cleanest and most orderly city, respective to the places we've been in India.

Today we will be doing laundry and miscellaneous errands, before heading off to Singapore tomorrow. Every year Singapore has a big sale (shopping is a national pastime) - fortunately we will be there during it.

We will try to upload our pictures to-date, and will let you know of the corresponding link.